0 Comments Time-lapse videos: Those wonderful cutaways in everything from nature programs to detective shows, showing off the passage of time in a few moments. If you remember that video is just a lot of still images playing at a fast rate, it’s easy to imagine they could be done on any digital camera. That’s actually the truth. You can make a time-lapse video using your camera, possibly with little to no accessories even, using just Lightroom to built it.

For this article, we’re just dealing with making the clips, and while you can potentially make much longer sequences in Lightroom, it’s probably better to create shorter sequences and join them together in iMovie or Windows Video Maker. The Gear Needed for Time-Lapse Photography Camera Most modern cameras with a remote shutter port can do time-lapse photography. The only feature you need is the ability to shoot a series of frames at a regular interval.

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Cameras like the Fujifilm X-T2, Nikon D750 and Canon 5DIV have this function built-in. If your camera doesn’t, you can buy a special type of remote shutter. You could even use basic GoPro-style action cameras. These have this function built into their photo modes. Intervalometer For cameras that need them, you can grab either official camera branded ones like the, or grab one off eBay, or places link LinkDelight.

Make sure it has the same port as your camera and lists your camera as compatible. Tripod As you’re running a series of images, your initial run will be static. There are ways to do motion with time-lapse; but initially, let’s just get something that works! Any tripod will do. However, it’s a good idea to have something. Even a slight movement of the camera will affect the final video quality.

Lenses Any lens that can capture the scene! If you’re doing landscape, a wide lens can set the scene, while a telephoto could let you zoom into the scene to show more cloud movement for example. If you’re doing night scenes, a fast prime would help you a lot.

Other things A book, an app, and a seat. Time-lapse is about compressing time. That means you’ve got to be there for the time the shoot takes. We’ll talk about frame rates and frame numbers, but basically, if you shot every 5 seconds for 20 minutes, you’ll have about 10 seconds of video.

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Yep, that’s all you’ll get for your wait. You may as well have something else to do while you’re shooting! Choosing frame rates and time intervals Video is measured in terms of frame rate, that is, how many frames are played each second the video runs. There are loads of different rates; 23.97 frames per second (fps), 24 fps, 25 fps, 29.97 fps, 30 fps. There are plenty of choices. Lightroom’s video export is at 29.97 fps, so it’s best to think close to this.

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This means that you need 30 shots for each second of footage or 300 images for 10 seconds. In the video world, a 10-second clip is fairly long, so with that as a reference, at a 5-second interval between shots, you’ll be shooting for 300 x 5 = 1500 seconds = 25 minutes.

Why 5-second intervals? Well, there are two reasons.

The first is that 10-seconds would give you a 50-minute shoot instead of 25, and the second is that during the daytime, 5-seconds generally looks good for most wide scenes. If you’re shooting city scenes, with moving traffic, one or two seconds will be fine and look great. For astronomy scenes, the exposures run from 15-30 secs, so you may find a continuous shooting mode gives a smoother final result.

Intervalometer Settings Setting your camera or the intervalometer depends on the device. Here’s how it looks on a Fuji X-T2 and with a TC-80 remote. You’ll find other devices will have similar menus. Fuji settings (or example). Getting the shot Choose a location where there’s some kind of movement. It could be people, clouds, or even the sea. As long as something is happening over the duration of your capture time.

Set your tripod up and compose the scene. Do a test shot to check your exposure.

When you’re happy with the image, take a shot of your hand with one finger pointing into the frame to let you know that the time-lapse is going to start at the next image. Set your intervalometer (internal or external) and let the camera fire away until you have enough shots for your sequence. If you plan on doing a lot of editing to the images, shoot in Raw. If your exposure is perfect, you’ll get away with JPEG. As a compromise, you could use mRaw or sRaw modes if you want smaller files, but with the advantage of better editing control.